Meenakari jewellery - complete guide

In Meenakari jewellery, precious stones are set and then enameled with gold. Historically speaking, the art was introduced to Rajasthan artisans by Raja Mansingh of Amer. He invited Lahore-based skilled artisans to his kingdom, and their intermingling with the locals craftsmen resulted in an amalgam, which came to be known as Meenakari. Meenakari is also a team work, where specialization of skill is of paramount importance. As it is generally done on the reverse side of kundan jewellery, meenakar has to work with goldsmith, engraver or ghaaria, designer or chitteria as well as jadiya. 

The art requires higher skill and its intricacy calls for application of technical mindset. In Meenakari, the piece of metal on which the work is to be done, is fixed on a lac stick. Designs of flowers, birds, fish etc are engraved on it. This leads to the creation of walls or grooves, to hold colour. Enamel dust, of required colour, is then poured into the grooves and each colour is fired individually. The heat of the furnace melts the colour and the coloured liquid gets spread equally into the groove. This process is repeated with each colour. 

Subsequently, each colour is individually fired. Colours, which are most heat resistant, are applied first, as they are re-fired with each additional colour. Once the last colour has been fired, the object is cooled and burnished or polished with agate. The depth of the grooves, filled with different colours, determines the play of light. Silver and gold are used for the base of Meenakari. Choice of colours, in case of silver, has to be green, yellow or blue, as these are the colours which stick with it. As for gold, all the colours can be applied to it and this is also the reason why the metal is preferred for Meenakari jewellery. 

Navaratna Jewellery designs

In Navratna jewellery, nine auspicious stones are used in a single 

ornament. The belief behind this is that the nine stones together ensure well being of the person who wears it. In India, Navratna jewellery has been given major importance, because of its astrological significance as well as its innate charm. The nine stones used in the jewellery diamond, ruby, emerald, coral, pearl, sapphire, garnet, topaz, and cat's eye. As it is believed in astrology, each planet watches over one of the nine gems and offer power. 

Shukra is the planet for the diamond, Sun for ruby, Saturn for sapphire, Rahu for garnet, Ketu for cat's eye, Moon for pearl, Guru for topaz, Buddh for emerald and Angaraha for coral. Navratna jewellery can be set in rings that are mounted, so that the stones touch the skin. The weight of the stones is decided according to the individual's astrological chart. In the following lines, we tell you about the significance of using the nine jewels. 

Nine Stones in Navratna Jewellery 

•  Ruby protects against poisonous substances and banishes any evil spirits that hover around. It also gives energy to the wearer and changes colour if the wearer is in bad health. 

• Emerald is an antidote for all stomach complaints, stings and bites. It is soothing to eyes, when mixed with saffron, and provides protection against poisonous insects or reptiles. It was used in ancient times, by mariners, to prevent storms. Emeralds are said to pale if the wearer is faced with deception. As it is the stone of the Goddess of Love, it helps lovers in their problems. 
• Blue has always been the colour of enlightenment and in Buddhism, the wearing of Sapphire was said to increase devotion. In the West, bishops and cardinals also wore sapphires in ancient times. In spite of being held in sacred esteem, sapphires can also bring bad luck if worn by a person who does not have it as a birthstone. 
• Coral is extremely popular, as it is a stone that is said to cure diseases, help the memory and act as a powerful protection against the evil spirits. That is perhaps why, it is often used in rosaries and made into chains for little children. 
• Pearls give strength to the heart and are often used in Ayurvedic medicine. In India, pearls have always been a favorite ornament in royal courts. 
• Garnet is found in many colours, though the best known is deep red, almost resembling a ruby. Garnets are often used to imitate precious stones, but have not been recorded as having any special properties of protection. 
• Topaz is used for occult practices. It is used in the Middle East, for averting the evil, and is said to bring wealth and long life to the wearer. It can be golden yellow in colour and sometimes, even colourless. 
• Cat's Eye is usually brownish yellow in colour. There is often a light line, which shines through the stone, giving the idea of the eye from which it derives its name. 

Jadau Jewellery

Jadau Jewellery forms one of the major examples of high skilled 

craftsmanship that was brought into India by Mughals. Historically 

speaking, the tradition of Jadau work has been in practice in the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat since the Mughal era. Jadau jewellery is also called engraved jewellery and is unique and a kind in itself. Considered to be a traditional jewellery of India, it is used in many traditional and auspicious occasions, like marriages and festival celebrations. 

Though the art was introduced by in India Mughals, Indian craftsmen made it popular by adding their indigenous skills. In Jadau jewellery, precious and semi precious stones, gems, crystals and beads are embedded in gold, which is first melted a bit. When the gold becomes pliable, the stones are set on it with great precision and artistry. After that, it is allowed to cool down and the stones and gems get fixed on it without any adhesive or carvings. 

Jadau work is team work, where a group of craftsmen are involved together. Each craftsman carries out a specific task related to the jewellery creation. The chiterias make the basic design, ghaarias are responsible for engraving and making holes, Meenakari or namelling is done by the enameller and the goldsmith takes care of the kundan or the gold. These days, Jadau is done on not just jewellery, but also jewellery boxes and delicate showpieces. 

Uncut diamonds called polki or vilandi are used as the central stone. Meenakari or art work done at the back of the jewel is purely for beautifying purposes. Highest care and attention is given towards the detail on every piece that the master craftsman creates. The stone setters first set the stone in silver foil, then fuse with a finishing of 

pure gold. 

Indian Wedding jewellery

An Indian bride is deemed incomplete without her sixteen adornments and jewellery forms an essential part of these adornments. On the main wedding day, every bride is expected to look her best. To achieve this goal, the bride pays special attention towards her wedding attire, jewellery, accessories, makeup and hair style. There are a number of items in the jewellery which cover, almost all the vital parts of the body. These items are specially prepared to compliment the bridal dress. The indian wedding jewellery consists of the following items.

Maangtika 

It is worn on the forehead by the bride. This is a reason why most of the bridal hair styles bear centre parting. This is done in order to accommodate the maangtika. This can be in different shapes and studded with different precious and semi precious stones. It usually consists of a string a with a centre piece attached to one end. In varied cultures, the form of the maangtika varies. It is even seen as a crown in some regions.

Necklace 

Necklace is the most eye catchy piece of jewellery, worn by the bride. It comes along with matching ear rings and nose piece. Moreover, attention is paid that it complements the colour of your attire and neck line. A choker is deemed perfect for such an occasion, coupled with a long necklace.

Ear Rings 

The ear rings usually match the necklace. You can choose between varieties like long heavy ear rings or short loops, from antique ear rings to small studs, depending upon your wedding outfit's colour and design.

Nose Ring 

This is another essential jewellery item to be worn by the bride. It is also chosen keeping in mind the colour and design of the ear rings. The traditional nose piece is known as 'Nath', which consists of a studded nose ring with a long chain hooked up in the hair. In case the nose is not pierced, there are nose studs available, which can be temporarily worn by the bride for the ceremony.

Bangles 

Bangles are the symbol of the nuptial rituals. As a result, the bride wears both gold as well as glass bangles on her wedding day. The glass bangles are mostly of the colour of the wedding dress. However, the gold bangles are the ones gifted by the mother in law.

Arm Bands 

Arm bands or armlets enhance the beauty of the bride, elating her grace and elegance. It is a traditional and regal jewellery item, which has become quite a fashion statement today. For a more stylish look, they are worn only on one arm.

Rings 

Rings are also vital to the embellishment of the bride. Usually the bride wears a Hath phoolhar in her hands. This consists of five rings for all the fingers, connected with a central piece, further connected with a bracelet, to be worn in the hand.

Waist Band 

Waist band is worn on the waist, over the saree or the lehenga. This is a heavy jewellery piece, which is quite traditional in look and design. This also serves as a support for the wedding dress and helps to keep in place. An artistic waist band can really add up to the grandeur of your wedding ensemble.

Anklets and Toe Rings 

The bride also wears anklets and toe rings in her feet. These are usually made of silver as gold is not worn in the feet. They are available in intricate designs, decorated with works of meenakari, kundan and beads.